Trying to read a knitting pattern; knitters - can you help?

[azul99]

I'm planning to knit a pullover for Paul. I am a beginner knitter, and in recent times have only done simple knit/purl things, but years ago I used to knit things with cables in them, and I want to give it a whirl now.

The pattern is a Designs by Jeannine pattern using worsted wool. The cable is worked over 12 rows. In Row 1, the instructions say:

P 30, place marker on needle, P12, inc in next st, P12, place marker on needle, P 30

Row 2 is:

(K1, P1) to marker, K8, P1, K8, P1, K8, (P1, K1) to end of row.

My question is, what does "inc in next st" mean?

Is inc "increase"? That makes no sense at all to me.

Can anyone help?

Thanks!

[agatha]

It's obvious to me, you are holding the pattern upside down. Make sense now? :)

[azul99]

you are holding the pattern upside down.

Hmmmm. I don't think so. I swear!

[ADDled]

I'm planning to knit a pullover for Paul. I am a beginner knitter, and in recent times have only done simple knit/purl things, but years ago I used to knit things with cables in them, and I want to give it a whirl now.

The pattern is a Designs by Jeannine pattern using worsted wool. The cable is worked over 12 rows. In Row 1, the instructions say:

P 30, place marker on needle, P12, inc in next st, P12, place marker on needle, P 30

Row 2 is:

(K1, P1) to marker, K8, P1, K8, P1, K8, (P1, K1) to end of row.

My question is, what does "inc in next st" mean?

Is inc "increase"? That makes no sense at all to me.

Can anyone help?

Thanks!Increase indeed. I'd think (though it's hard without looking at the work to be sure) that I'd just knit into the front and the back of the stitch.

[hamamelis]

Increase indeed. I'd think (though it's hard without looking at the work to be sure) that I'd just knit into the front and the back of the stitch.

I would do that, or pick up the ladder in between and make a stitch there. My preferred way is knitting in the front and back, but sometimes the ladder lift looks nicer.

[azul99]

It seems odd to me to increase in the middle of a cable pattern, but I'll do what I'm told!

I may have more questions later. I'm a little nervous about taking on this pattern, but if I do another all-knit pullover I will SCREAM from boredom.

Thanks again!

[hamamelis]

It seems odd to me to increase in the middle of a cable pattern, but I'll do what I'm told!

I may have more questions later. I'm a little nervous about taking on this pattern, but if I do another all-knit pullover I will SCREAM from boredom.

Thanks again!

the Elsebeth Lavold method of making cables calls for increases- it keeps them from pulling in. What does the rest of the cable pattern look like?

[azul99]

What does the rest of the cable pattern look like?

I do have more questions actually and hope you can help again!

This is the pattern, following the elastic (which I've just finished):

Row 1...P 26, place marker on needle, P12, inc in next st, P12, place marker on needle, P 26.

Rows 2 & 4...(K1, P1) to marker, K8, P1, K8, P1, K8, (P1, K1) to end of row

Row 3 ... and all uneven rows, Purl

Row 6...(K1, P1) to marker, cable over next 8 sts, P1, K8, P1, cable, (P1, K1) to end of row.

Row 8 & 10...Repeat Row 2 & 4.

Row 12 ... (K1, P1) to marker, K8, P1, cable, P1, K8 (P1, K1) to end of row.

Cable instruction is: Sl next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back of work, K next 2 sts, K the next 2 sts from cable needle; sl next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front of work, K next 2 sts, K 2 from cable needle.

QUESTIONS:

1. Should I assume that Row 1 and the other odd-numbered rows represent the "public side" of the sweater?

2. If this is so, then the "public" side shows rows of purled stitches and K/P stitches. This doesn't sound very attractive to me! (Just realized it tonight. The photo for this pattern is taken at a bit of a distance.) Am I missing something?

3. If I'm not missing anything, can I choose to do knit-only on the public rows and purl back across on the other side, but keep the cable aspect of this sweater? (I have knitted my gauge and it is correct.)

Thanks again!

[hamamelis]

I was going to try to knit this up to see exactly what you're talking about. :knit::knit::knit: but am realising it's a rib/cable pattern, no? For some reason Iwas thinking it would be a center cable. I tried finding a picture online but it looks like the designer is updating the website and pages aren't linking and cached ones have no pictures. Chryse is right, the even side is the right side since that's where the cab;e is being formed.

:knit:

[Chryse]

From how it reads, it looks as though all even number rows will be the right side, since those are the rows you are doing the cable pattern on. The purl rows should be the wrong side.

Edited to add - Did the pattern specify ending the ribbing on a right or wrong side row?

[azul99]

From how it reads, it looks as though all even number rows will be the right side, since those are the rows you are doing the cable pattern on. The purl rows should be the wrong side.

What's odd to me is that the ribbing is an even # of stitches (8), so the "nice"-looking side, vis-a-vis where I cast on, is the odd-# side. If the even-number side of the pattern is the "public" side, should I do one more row of ribbing to rectify that?

Edited to add - Did the pattern specify ending the ribbing on a right or wrong side row?

No, it didn't. :confused:

WWYD?

[azul99]

I was going to try to knit this up to see exactly what you're talking about. :knit::knit::knit: but am realising it's a rib/cable pattern, no? For some reason Iwas thinking it would be a center cable. I tried finding a picture online but it looks like the designer is updating the website and pages aren't linking and cached ones have no pictures. Chryse is right, the even side is the right side since that's where the cab;e is being formed.

:knit:

It is rib/cable, but the cables (3) are all centered in the middle. Does that make sense?

[azul99]

xxxxxxxxxxxx

[azul99]

After the last part of the 12-row cable part (see above), the instructions say:

Repeat from Row 2 til pc measures 12 inches or til pc is desired length to underarm. Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows.

Huh? So I go from Row 12 to Row 2? That makes no sense if all the even rows are the public side. Then I am doing 2 rows in a row of K1, P1 to marker, etc.

Should I go back to Row 1?

If I should go back to Row 1 (I think I should), then should I keep increasing? (This would be every 12 rows so it wouldn't be drastic.)

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Thanks for your help.

[libbylibbylibby]

I would say, do not go back to row 1, rather knit a row 13 -- same as you knit row 3, 5, 7, etc.
Then begin again at row 2, and follow the same pattern
like this
row 1 (increases)
row 2 (RS)
row 3 (WS)
row 4 (RS)
row 5 (WS)
row 6 (RS -- cabling row)
row 7 (WS)
row 8 (RS)
row 9 (WS)
row 10 (RS)
row 11 (WS)
row 12 (RS -- cabling row)
row 13 (WS)
row 2 (RS)
row 3 (WS)
row 4 (RS)
row 5 (WS)
row 6 (RS -- cabling)

This way, you will cable every 6 rows, and always on the RS
Keep in mind that to be cable looking, you have to have reverse stockinette around the cable stitches.

Hope that is useful to you!

[hamamelis]

After the last part of the 12-row cable part (see above), the instructions say:

Repeat from Row 2 til pc measures 12 inches or til pc is desired length to underarm. Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows.

Huh? So I go from Row 12 to Row 2? That makes no sense if all the even rows are the public side. Then I am doing 2 rows in a row of K1, P1 to marker, etc.

Should I go back to Row 1?

If I should go back to Row 1 (I think I should), then should I keep increasing? (This would be every 12 rows so it wouldn't be drastic.)

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Thanks for your help.

I wouldn't go back to row 1= that's just the foundation row, so to speak. Pretend it doesn't exist after you do it the first time. And if you need to, for subsequent row 1's after the first one, replace it with row 3. Have you found a picture of it anywhere online? Sometimes when I see a picture everything makes sense.

[azul99]

I would say, do not go back to row 1, rather knit a row 13 -- same as you knit row 3, 5, 7, etc.
Then begin again at row 2, and follow the same pattern
like this
row 1 (increases)
row 2 (RS)
row 3 (WS)
row 4 (RS)
row 5 (WS)
row 6 (RS -- cabling row)
row 7 (WS)
row 8 (RS)
row 9 (WS)
row 10 (RS)
row 11 (WS)
row 12 (RS -- cabling row)
row 13 (WS)
row 2 (RS)
row 3 (WS)
row 4 (RS)
row 5 (WS)
row 6 (RS -- cabling)

This way, you will cable every 6 rows, and always on the RS
Keep in mind that to be cable looking, you have to have reverse stockinette around the cable stitches.

Hope that is useful to you!

This is SO useful - thank you so much! I'm printing this out!

I'm feeling a little thick right now, but you guys are so helpful. THANK YOU!

[hamamelis]

I would say, do not go back to row 1, rather knit a row 13 -- same as you knit row 3, 5, 7, etc.
Then begin again at row 2, and follow the same pattern
like this
row 1 (increases)
row 2 (RS)
row 3 (WS)
row 4 (RS)
row 5 (WS)
row 6 (RS -- cabling row)
row 7 (WS)
row 8 (RS)
row 9 (WS)
row 10 (RS)
row 11 (WS)
row 12 (RS -- cabling row)
row 13 (WS)
row 2 (RS)
row 3 (WS)
row 4 (RS)
row 5 (WS)
row 6 (RS -- cabling)

This way, you will cable every 6 rows, and always on the RS
Keep in mind that to be cable looking, you have to have reverse stockinette around the cable stitches.

Hope that is useful to you!

Libby rocks :knit::knit::knit:

[azul99]

I wouldn't go back to row 1= that's just the foundation row, so to speak. Pretend it doesn't exist after you do it the first time. And if you need to, for subsequent row 1's after the first one, replace it with row 3. Have you found a picture of it anywhere online? Sometimes when I see a picture everything makes sense.

That makes sense now.

One more question: If I go to row 3, given that the cable pattern is in Rows 6 and 12 ("cable over next 8 sts"), will it be distributed evenly?

THANK YOU!

[azul99]

Libby rocks :knit::knit::knit:

Yes, she does rock! But then, so do you!

I haven't found a photo on the Internet. I have one on the smallish-size pattern, but it's from a distance. (And I'm ignoring the really bad 80's hair in it, not to mention the acid-washed jeans. But I digress.)

Thanks L.!

[hamamelis]

That makes sense now.

One more question: If I go to row 3, given that the cable pattern is in Rows 6 and 12 ("cable over next 8 sts"), will it be distributed evenly?

THANK YOU!

no, don't go to row 3 automatically. Just replace row 1 with the row 3 instructions AFTER completing the foundation row 1.

[azul99]

OMG.

DH put the pattern for this in the recycling bin by mistake, and it is GONE.

I have finished the back and now don’t know what to do because the pattern is GONE.

I am CRYING. Can you believe this? This is AWFUL. There isn’t an icon for this.

From counting the stitches in the ribbing, and from looking at what I posted here, I think I need to cast on 76 stitches. I’m not sure about that though. And beyond that, I can follow the cabling pattern I copied here - right? But.

After that, I am lost. What about the neckline? The sleeves?

There HAS to be a way to figure out how to finish this sweater without having the pattern. It is a basic raglan, and I have this cable pattern posted above/here.

Can anyone help?

[hamamelis]

:grouphug::grouphug::grouphug::grouphug:

Yes, you can do this! We'll put together our wisdom and collective patterns and be able to figure this out for you. If you can LMK what the gauge is that will be particularly helpful.

:grouphug::grouphug::grouphug: Sally

[azul99]

:grouphug::grouphug::grouphug::grouphug:

Yes, you can do this! We'll put together our wisdom and collective patterns and be able to figure this out for you. If you can LMK what the gauge is that will be particularly helpful.

:grouphug::grouphug::grouphug: Sally

Oh God Lynn, thank you. I think (THINK) the gauge is 4 stitches to the inch but it might be 5. I can knit up the gauge to find out of course.

This is worsted wool, and the needles are #5 and #8. I do know that the gauge worked for me - I knitted it up and did not have to go up or down a needle size.

I'm making a child's size 10 sweater.

Can you believe this? I can't stop crying; this is awful.

[ADDled]

OMG.

DH put the pattern for this in the recycling bin by mistake, and it is GONE.

Can anyone help?
((((HUGS)))) I'm so sorry! My dh would lose his head if he did something like that, even by mistake!

We'll help you. If you can't get the pattern again, it may be helpful for you to get this (http://www.amazon.com/Knitters-Handy-Book-Sweater-Patterns/dp/1931499438/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1205370934&sr=8-2) book, even from the library. It shows you how to do a plain vanilla raglan sweater in any gauge. With that, plus the cable pattern of from this thread and the visual of the actual back of the sweater you have already knit, you should be good to do.

Or just use the collective knitting wisdom here.

We'll help you, don't worry.

[ADDled]

Oh God Lynn, thank you. I think (THINK) the gauge is 4 stitches to the inch but it might be 5. I can knit up the gauge to find out of course.

You don't have to knit a gauge swatch again. Just put your ruler right down on the back you've already knitted to find your exact gauge. Measure randomly in about 4 different places over 4 inches.

[hamamelis]

Oh God Lynn, thank you. I think (THINK) the gauge is 4 stitches to the inch but it might be 5. I can knit up the gauge to find out of course.

This is worsted wool, and the needles are #5 and #8. I do know that the gauge worked for me - I knitted it up and did not have to go up or down a needle size.

I'm making a child's size 10 sweater.

Can you believe this? I can't stop crying; this is awful.

No need to knit up the gauge- measure the width of the sweater and total number of stitches across- divide and voila! No need to re-knit any more until you're ready to go for the front :-)

I have an awesome book called "All sweaters in every gauge" that has raglan sleeves in it. That book is my bible when designing sweaters. The grand plan chart from interweave is good too, however that's for set in sleeves only.

[ADDled]

No need to knit up the gauge- measure the width of the sweater and total number of stitches across- divide and voila! No need to re-knit any more until you're ready to go for the front :-)

I have an awesome book called "All sweaters in every gauge" that has raglan sleeves in it. That book is my bible when designing sweaters. The grand plan chart from interweave is good too, however that's for set in sleeves only.
Or do it the way Lynn says, of course :D

The Ann Budd book I linked - Ann Budd did the interweave Grand Plan stuff, if I'm not mistaken. Wasn't she an interweave editor?

Anyway, the Ann Budd book I linked has raglan sleeves - but maybe Lynn can just look it up for you and you won't even need to get the book!

[azul99]

No need to knit up the gauge- measure the width of the sweater and total number of stitches across- divide and voila! No need to re-knit any more until you're ready to go for the front :-)

Ok, it is 16" across the front, and 77 stitches (I cast on 76 and added one stitch in the first/"foundation" row. That's 4.8 stitches to the inch - I assume I should call it five?

FWIW I made a different sweater with the same wool, and the gauge there was 5 st = 1 inch using #7 needles.

[hamamelis]

Or do it the way Lynn says, of course :D

The Ann Budd book I linked - Ann Budd did the interweave Grand Plan stuff, if I'm not mistaken. Wasn't she an interweave editor?

Anyway, the Ann Budd book I linked has raglan sleeves - but maybe Lynn can just look it up for you and you won't even need to get the book!

I don't have the Ann Budd book- pointless with every issue of IK:knit:

I can look it up in the book I do have, but unfortunately won't be able to until morning.

Did you completely finish the back and doing the decreases for the armhole openings? I ask because it would be ideal to work it so the decreases match, at least somewhat.

Have a :drink: in the meantime.

[azul99]

Or do it the way Lynn says, of course :D

The Ann Budd book I linked - Ann Budd did the interweave Grand Plan stuff, if I'm not mistaken. Wasn't she an interweave editor?

Anyway, the Ann Budd book I linked has raglan sleeves - but maybe Lynn can just look it up for you and you won't even need to get the book!

Thanks so much Amy. I've just put the Ann Budd book on hold at the library. You guys are helping me calm down.

RE the front, will the Ann Budd book tell me how to decrease around the neckline for a crewneck?

RE the sleeves, will it tell me how to make raglan sleeves? I would think that, tinkering with the pattern, I could figure out how to get the same cable pattern on the sleeve (single or double?) as on the front and back, right? (Right?)

I am calming down but am still BESIDE MYSELF. DH is contrite, but not sufficiently so. I cannot BELIEVE he did this.

[azul99]

I can look it up in the book I do have, but unfortunately won't be able to until morning.

That's ok Lynn; thanks - I just put the Ann Budd book on hold at the library.

Did you completely finish the back and doing the decreases for the armhole openings?

Yes, I did, so at least I have the full template. Also, I am going to write down right now how the decreases worked, while it's fresh in my mind, so that I can use the same decrease method.

I'm starting to calm down, but still worried about how to work the neckline (which is of course not the same as the back) and the sleeves.

Thanks again.

[hamamelis]

I'm starting to calm down, but still worried about how to work the neckline (which is of course not the same as the back) and the sleeves.



The neckline is going to be easy peasy. Do you want rounded or v-neck?

[azul99]

The neckline is going to be easy peasy. Do you want rounded or v-neck?

I think rounded (that's what the pattern called for). You really think it will be easy?

What about the sleeves? Should I use the Ann Budd book to figure out how many to cast on, and then figure out how to add the cable pattern (one cable or two, depending on the # of stitches) to the sleeve?

~breathing deeply~

[ADDled]

Thanks so much Amy. I've just put the Ann Budd book on hold at the library. You guys are helping me calm down.((())) I'd be so mad, too! I'd just be beside myself! Have a big glass of wine :)

RE the front, will the Ann Budd book tell me how to decrease around the neckline for a crewneck? Yes. It sure will.

RE the sleeves, will it tell me how to make raglan sleeves? Yes. It will do that, too.I would think that, tinkering with the pattern, I could figure out how to get the same cable pattern on the sleeve (single or double?) as on the front and back, right? (Right?)I absolutely do believe you can do that, with no problem at all.

I am calming down but am still BESIDE MYSELF. DH is contrite, but not sufficiently so. I cannot BELIEVE he did this.
Hang in there!

[ADDled]

I think rounded (that's what the pattern called for). You really think it will be easy?

What about the sleeves? Should I use the Ann Budd book to figure out how many to cast on, and then figure out how to add the cable pattern (one cable or two, depending on the # of stitches) to the sleeve?
~breathing deeply~
Lynn's right - easy peasy. Yes, if you're getting the sweater book, it'll tell you step by step how to do a sweater in your size in your gauge. It'll tell you what to cast on for sleeves, and then you'll determine what you're doing for the cable on the sleeves. You won't have any problem.

[hamamelis]

I think rounded (that's what the pattern called for). You really think it will be easy?

What about the sleeves? Should I use the Ann Budd book to figure out how many to cast on, and then figure out how to add the cable pattern (one cable or two, depending on the # of stitches) to the sleeve?

~breathing deeply~

I'll be able to tell better tomorrow when I can dig out my book(not the Budd one) and take a look at that. I don't think it will be hard, but we need to make sure the decreases for the sleeve tops match closely to the ones on the body.

[azul99]

He feels terrible. He is much more contrite and apologetic than he was last night, which is good, because he is not good at acknowledging/owning responsibility and in this situation it was REALLY bothering me.

I've been wracking my brain and I think I may have bought this pattern here in Maryland - it's a child's sweater pattern and I don't know that I would have bought it when I was single/no kids. I'm going to go to the yarn shop I use here on Friday and see if they might have it (or know how to contact the person who published it). I'm not hopeful (that shop looks like someone's grandma's chaotic attic), but it's worth a shot.

What I dreamt about is, how will I figure out what cable pattern to put on the sleeves? The cable pattern (see above) is worked over 26 stitches, and I don't think that would make sense to do on a sleeve. Would I do a "mini"-version of it, with a four-stitch placket in the middle rather than eight? Or would I just do one cable only on the sleeve? (How are these normally done on sleeves?)

Thanks again; you guys are calming me down (dreams notwithstanding).

[hamamelis]

Ok, it is 16" across the front, and 77 stitches (I cast on 76 and added one stitch in the first/"foundation" row. That's 4.8 stitches to the inch - I assume I should call it five?

FWIW I made a different sweater with the same wool, and the gauge there was 5 st = 1 inch using #7 needles.

ok- do the front identical to the back for cast on and cabling pattern.

Assuming you are working on 77 st, you'll want to BO 4 at the beginning of each row to shape the armholes, then decrease 1 st every 1/4" 6 times.

But when the armhole measures 6" you'll want to start neck shaping. (To shape the neck you'll want a 2nd ball of yarn. ) Looking at the piece, place markers around the center 13 st. Knit 1st ball to 1st marker and place the sts between the markers on holder. Join 2nd ball of yarn then knit across row.

Then, dec 1 st each side of holder ever other row, 7 times. At the same time you'll want to continue armhole decreases.

Once you're established with that we'll address the sleeves. I think you're concerned about keeping the cables centered? It would be the least confusing to simply have one cable up the arm. If you decide that you want to be ambitous you can create cables from the increases, but it can be tricky making it look neat- not my preferred way of doing things. (my own personal opinion).

[azul99]

ok- do the front identical to the back for cast on and cabling pattern.

Yes, got that. Looking at the front, I actually think I cast on 77 for the ribbing (8 rows), then increased one, which makes it worked over 78 stitches total.

Assuming you are working on 77 st, you'll want to BO 4 at the beginning of each row to shape the armholes

Ok - thanks. Do you mean total 8 stitches (4 on each end)? Really? Seems like a lot, but ok.

, then decrease 1 st every 1/4" 6 times.

I remember very clearly the decreasing process since I just did it for the back. It involved decreasing 1 stitch on every "public" row, a total of 21 times (IIRC that is the number).

But when the armhole measures 6" you'll want to start neck shaping. (To shape the neck you'll want a 2nd ball of yarn. ) Looking at the piece, place markers around the center 13 st. Knit 1st ball to 1st marker and place the sts between the markers on holder. Join 2nd ball of yarn then knit across row.

Then, dec 1 st each side of holder ever other row, 7 times. At the same time you'll want to continue armhole decreases.

Ok, I can do that.

(RE the sleeves): I think you're concerned about keeping the cables centered?

I'm not so much concerned about that as I am about having enough cabling on the sleeve to make it look "related" to the body, if that makes any sense.

(It would be the least confusing to simply have one cable up the arm.

I think you are right but wonder if that will be sufficient to tie the sleeve to the body, visually. The alternative would be to do two cables up the center, with a smaller (e.g. 4-stitch rather than 8-stitch which is what the body has in the cable pattern) plain-knit placket in between the two cables.

If you decide that you want to be ambitous you can create cables from the increases, but it can be tricky making it look neat- not my preferred way of doing things. (my own personal opinion).

No, no ambition here! I just want to make this sweater!

Thanks so much, Lynn!

[hamamelis]

Yes, got that. Looking at the front, I actually think I cast on 77 for the ribbing (8 rows), then increased one, which makes it worked over 78 stitches total.



Ok - thanks. Do you mean total 8 stitches (4 on each end)? Really? Seems like a lot, but ok.

Thanks so much, Lynn!

If it's 78 st that's going to change otherwise it's going to be lopsided somewhere, so don't follow that now. The pattern I'm going by may be vastly different than the one you are, but yes, it's saying 4st at the beginning of the arms. You would really be better off to use good lighting and time and check the decrease pattern on the one you've already done though, that will be the best match and best overall outcome. The neckline is seriously the easiest part to figure out so don't stress over that at all.

And you're welcome!

[azul99]

If it's 78 st that's going to change otherwise it's going to be lopsided somewhere, so don't follow that now. The pattern I'm going by may be vastly different than the one you are, but yes, it's saying 4st at the beginning of the arms. You would really be better off to use good lighting and time and check the decrease pattern on the one you've already done though, that will be the best match and best overall outcome. The neckline is seriously the easiest part to figure out so don't stress over that at all.

And you're welcome!


Thanks Lynn. Please don't work up any more instructions though; I want to count and make SURE that I have the right number of stitches, here, so that I'm not making you re-work these calculations over and over again. In fact, I'm going back to the top of this thread to look at the cable instructions, which should (SHOULD) tell me how many stitches we are talking about here.

[azul99]

Ok, this is what the pattern called for, after 8 rows of ribbing. My comments are on ALL CAPS:

Row 1...P 26, place marker on needle, P12, inc in next st, P12, place marker on needle, P 26.

I'M GETTING A TOTAL OF *77* STITCHES HERE. THIS MEANS I MUST HAVE CAST ON 76 FOR THE RIBBING.

Rows 2 & 4 (public side of work)...(K1, P1) to marker, K8, P1, K8, P1, K8, (P1, K1) to end of row

BUT NOW I COUNT AND AM GETTING 78 (?!). HERE'S HOW: K1P1 TO MARKER = 26; K8, P1, K8, P1, K8 = 26; K1P1 TO MARKER = 26 AGAIN, TOTAL = 78

In other words, on Row 1 it looks as if I'll have 25 st inside the marker, but then looking at the next row, it looks like 26 st inside the marker. What am I missing?

Row 3 ... and all uneven rows, Purl

How can this be? What am I missing? Am I working this on 77 st, or 78?

I'm sorry to be such a PITA. I'm happy to reciprocate somehow.

[ADDled]

Weren't you asking about "make one?" Didn't you have to increase one somewhere? Maybe to keep a cable from pulling in?

[azul99]

Weren't you asking about "make one?" Didn't you have to increase one somewhere? Maybe to keep a cable from pulling in?

Yes - the pattern says to increase one st in the first (wrong-side) row:

"Row 1...P 26, place marker on needle, P12, inc in next st, P12, place marker on needle, P 26."

As I read that it goes 26+12+1 new stitch+12+26 = 77

But then the next row/Row 2, reading and doing the same addition, it appears there are 78 st:

Rows 2 & 4 (public side of work)...(K1, P1) to marker, K8, P1, K8, P1, K8, (P1, K1) to end of row

i.e. the math is 26+8+1+8+1+8+26=78

How is it that increasing made 77, yet in the public row it seems that there are 78 st?

I wonder what I'm missing. Or maybe I'm not missing anything and it's obvious?

I really am sorry to be creating such a flap here.

[azul99]

Yes - the pattern says to increase one st in the first (wrong-side) row:

"Row 1...P 26, place marker on needle, P12, inc in next st, P12, place marker on needle, P 26."

As I read that it goes 26+12+1 new stitch+12+26 = 77

But then the next row/Row 2, reading and doing the same addition, it appears there are 78 st:

Rows 2 & 4 (public side of work)...(K1, P1) to marker, K8, P1, K8, P1, K8, (P1, K1) to end of row

i.e. the math is 26+8+1+8+1+8+26=78

How is it that increasing made 77, yet in the public row it seems that there are 78 st?

I wonder what I'm missing. Or maybe I'm not missing anything and it's obvious?

I really am sorry to be creating such a flap here.

And to further complicate things, I just counted the ribbing stitches and I get 77 (as I did last night). This suggests I should increase one in that first row, then work the pattern over *78* stitches. Still not sure how that first row looks to total 77, but I'm not going to sweat it.

I'll count the ribbing stitches again for good measure though.

Thanks so much to you both. You have no idea how much I appreciate this thread!